REVIEW: JEWELLERY, WATCHES, SILVER & OBJECTS OVERTU: 25 NOVEMBER

Jewels with Royal connections continue to be highly sought after, the York Rose Brooch proving no exception.

This auction included an exquisite brooch, one of eight examples presented by Prince Albert (later King George VI) to the bridesmaids who attended his bride Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (later Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother) at their wedding on 26 April 1923.

The frosted rock crystal and diamond brooch, known as The York Rose Brooch, and measuring just 25mm in diameter, was made by the Royal jewellers, Garrard & Co., circa 1923, and consisted of a carved Tudor rose, centred with rose-cut diamond initials 'EA' – Elizabeth and Albert – the brooch mounted in platinum.

It is not known which of the Royal bridesmaids received this particular example, but each of the eight bridesmaids – Lady Mary Cambridge, the Hon Diamond Harding, Lady Mary Thynne, the Hon Elizabeth Elphinstone, Lady May Cambridge, Lady Catherine Hamilton, Miss Betty Cator and the Hon Cecilia Bowes-Lyon – received an identical brooch as a gift from the bridegroom. Estimated at £3,000-5,000, the brooch trebled high estimate, selling for a hammer price of £15,000.

The sale as a whole confirmed the strength of the current jewellery and watches auction market, with outstanding results overall.

A diamond fringe necklace, the mesh-link neck chain with polished flowerhead motifs and suspending a knifewire fringe of graduated brilliant-cut diamonds, sold for hammer price of £17,000. A fine 3.85 carat cushion-cut diamond ring, by esteemed American maker JABEL, achieved top estimate, selling for £20,000.

Cartier pieces continue to be in great demand, following on from the highly successful V&A exhibition earlier this year. A striking turquoise and diamond pendant mounted by Cartier, a private commission with the customer providing the turquoise panel, tripled pre-sale auction estimate. The turquoise matrix plaque was applied with trios of brilliant-cut diamonds, within a similarly-set scalloped surround. Signed ‘MONTURE Cartier’, numbered, and stamped ‘750’, it was pitched at £3,000-4,000, and sold for a hammer price of £10,000.

A Cartier Panthère wristwatch, circa 1990, complete with secret signature at X on the dial and I8ct gold case and brick-link bracelet, carried an estimate of £3,000-5,000, and sold for £9,500.

A rare Dunhill-Namiki ‘maki-e’ lacquer travelling pen, circa 1930, decorated by Makiawa Schchinoho / ‘Shobi’ with gold dust and two goldfish swimming amongst pondweed, was estimated at £1800-2600. The Namiki Manufacturing Company was founded in Japan in 1918 by Ryosuke Namiki (1880-1954).

In 1925, Namiki showcased their finely decorated pens in the West, catching the attention of prestigious retailers, including Asprey and Cartier, and Clement Court, manager of Alfred Dunhill’s Paris shop. In 1926 Namiki opened an office in Bishopsgate and by 1930 a formal contract and partnership was made with Alfred Dunhill, granting Dunhill exclusive worldwide distribution rights outside Japan – cementing the ‘Dunhill-Namiki Made in Japan’ brand. By this time, Dunhill had a retail network in all the best locations in over 30 countries. In 1938 the company became the Pilot
Pen Company.

This illustrious pedigree and fine craftsmanship was not lost on bidders, who, after fiercely competitive bidding, took the pen way past its estimate to a hammer price of £9,500.