Early Rings, Antique Jewels and Top Brand Watches Exceed Expectations at Noonans

Noonans Mayfair’s Spring auctions attracted strong prices in their sales of Jewellery, Silver, Jewellery, Silver & Objects of Vertu, and Watches held on Wednesday, March 26, 2025.

As Frances Noble, Associate Director and Head of the Jewellery Department, commented: “Our Spring auctions showed the auction market to be extremely buoyant, the two auctions totalling £820,000 hammer price, one of our highest sale totals to date, and saw good prices for a wide range of items from early rings, antique jewels to watches, particularly by Cartier. The strong prices reflect the high demand for good antique pieces as well as the current growing appetite for Cartier jewels and watches”.

She continued: “Some of the highest prices in the sale were for early rings dating from the 13th – 15th centuries (see separate release), including a rare gem-set bishop’s ring, The King Row Ring, which sold for over the pre-sale estimate for a hammer price of £19,000 [lot 88] and a very fine posy ring, the Merton Posy Ring, selling for a hammer price of £11,000 [lot 89], both were detectorist finds from Norfolk. An Elizabethan ruby and enamel ring, dating from circa 1560-1580, sold for a hammer price of £8,500 [lot 94].”

Other top highlights included a 31.41 carat Sri Lankan untreated colour change sapphire ring, far exceeding its pre-sale estimate of £15,000-18,000, finally selling for a hammer price of £28,000 [lot 346].

The strong offering of 19th century pieces performed extremely well, mostly exceeding estimate, such as a late 19th century diamond crescent brooch, set with over 10 carats of graduated old brilliant, cushion and rose-cut diamonds, with provenance from a Noble family, selling for a hammer price of £9,500 against an estimate of £6,000-£8,000 [lot 351]. A fine enamel and diamond serpent bracelet, circa 1860, sold for a hammer price of £7,000 against an estimate of £3,000-5,000, the snake-link gold bracelet with blue enamel serpent head set with graduated old brilliant-cut diamonds and ruby cabochon eyes [lot 293]. A mid 19th century Renaissance Revival enamel, pearl and diamond pendant sold for a hammer price of £5,000 against an estimate of £2,000-£3,000 [lot 325] and a diamond cross pendant, dating from circa 1890, set throughout with old brilliant-cut diamonds, formerly the Property of Field Marshal Birdwood, sold for a hammer price of £3,800 against an estimate of £1,200-£1,500 [lot 230].

20th century items also attracted attention. Ever popular Art Deco examples performed well with a 1930s diamond brooch, centred with a marquise-cut diamond, within an openwork geometric surround of old brilliant and cushion-shaped diamonds, and mounted in platinum, selling for a hammer price of £9,000 [lot 343], whilst a stunning early 20th century Sri Lankan sugarloaf sapphire and diamond ring sold for a hammer price of £5,500, doubling its pre-sale estimate [lot 339].

More contemporary pieces included an elegant diamond ‘Skyline’ cuff by Venetian jewellers Tokatzian, depicting the stylised skyline of New York City, pavé set with brilliant-cut diamonds, against a mother-of-pearl ground, which fetched a hammer price of £5,500 against an estimate of £2,000-£3,000 [lot 213].

The second auction of the day, the Watches sale, included fine examples from the property of a private collector. The strength of the Cartier market was evident, with competitive bidding for all the Cartier examples. A gold rectangular Tank A Vis dual time zone wristwatch, dating from circa 2006, realised a hammer price of £11,000 against an estimate of £7,000-£10,000 [lot 580], whilst a pink gold automatic wristwatch with date and bracelet, circa 2012 fetched a hammer price of £10,000 [lot 579]. A rare Charles II five Guinea gold coin watch, made by Cartier circa 1962, sold for a hammer price of £9,500 against an estimate of £4,000-£6,000 [lot 522].

Other top brands sold well including a lady’s Rolex Pearlmaster, Ref. 80298, which achieved £26,000 [lot 548] and an Audemars Piquet semi-skeletonised wristwatch, Ref. 25720, selling for £14,000 [lot 596].