A hardstone cameo bracelet and necklace suite, 19th century, the bracelet centred with an oval cameo signed ‘GIROMETTI‘ carved to depict Cupid, mounted between two smaller cameos, the necklace similarly set with six graduating cameos, carved to depict classical female profiles, possibly emblematic of the Muses, within green enamel heightened ropetwist gold settings and spaced by entwined figure-of-eight links, leading to pierced quatrefoil links, contained in fitted case, the silk signed ‘R. Gilbert & Sons Ltd’ of Coventry, necklace length 38cm, bracelet approximately 18cm (with extending clasp later adapted). £4,000-£6,000

Giuseppe Girometti (1779-1851) was an Italian gem-engraver, sculptor and medallist, considered one of the finest gem-engravers in the first half of the 19th century. In 1812, he was elected to the Academia di San Luca in Rome as an engraver of hardstones, receiving numerous awards. On the command of master sculptor Canova, he was employed by the Papal Mint from 1822 as head engraver.

Both Giuseppe and his son Pietro (1811-1859) were gem-engravers and both used the form ‘GIROMETTI’ to sign their work, without identifying initials. The British Museum Collection includes various Girometti cameos and research by O. M. Dalton (1915) and later discussion in The Hull Grundy Catalogue (1984) suggested that cameos attributable to Giuseppe bear a simple signature or one in Greek, whilst those attributed to Pietro show a slightly more elaborate version.
The interest in gem-cutting and engraving in England in the first half of the 19th century had suffered a decline, resulting in large quantities of finely carved cameos being sourced from Italy and imported into London to be mounted by the many goldsmiths who specialised in cameo jewellery.


Literature:
Dalton O.M: Catalogue of Engraved Gems of Post-Classical Periods, pub. 1915
Gere et al, The Art of the Jewellery A catalogue of the Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum, No 871, pub. 1984.