Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

A tanzanite and diamond ring by Gilian Packard, 1972, the emerald-cut tanzanite in four-claw setting, within a bold architectural setting of vertical polished ribs, with diamond highlights, London hallmark, maker’s mark ‘GEP’, stamped ‘750’, tanzanite approximately 3.0 carats, ring size M. £700-£900

The tanzanite ring was a private commission made by Gilian Packard in 1972, with the tanzanite being provided by the customer. The ring thence by family descent.

Gilian Packard (1938-1997) was born in Newcastle-on-Tyne. Named Gilian (with one ‘l’ - because, as she said “My father couldn’t spell”), she established herself as one of the leading modern jewellers of the 1960s.

She studied at the Kingston School of Art, the Central School and the Royal College of Art. After her third year at the RCA, her Diploma exhibition coincided with the public opening of their new building in June 1962. Gilian acquired from it one or two commissions for special pieces. From these gentle beginnings, her work quickly began to gather pace.

Most of her work was for private customers: “Designing for particular people is satisfying because one can design pieces that suit them as individuals.” The remaining part of her production went to retail outlets such as Richard Ogden in Burlington Arcade, or Cameo Corner. Progressive provincial jewellers such as Michael Jones in Northampton also retailed certain pieces. She went on to win many important jewellery awards and became the first female Freeman of the Goldsmiths’ Company.

She promoted modern jewellery design through her work as a teacher, becoming Professor of Jewellery and Silversmithing at the Glasgow School of Art, and then at the Sir John Cass Department of Silversmithing, Jewellery and Allied Arts at London’s Guildhall University.

Gilian died in Aldeburgh in 1997. Examples of her work can be found in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and in many public and private collections.

With thanks to the Goldsmiths’ Hall for additional information.



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Please note that this lot is subject to importation duty of 20% on the hammer price unless exported outside the UK.