Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

A late 19th / early 20th century sapphire and diamond bow brooch, possibly Russian, with the workmaster’s mark AT, scratched inventory numbers to the mount, the stylised bow channel set with square-cut sapphires and European-cut diamonds, to a two colour precious metal mount, the pin stamped with maker’s mark in oval punch, brooch length 37mm. £700-900

The stamped mark AT was used by Alfred Thielemann, (active c 1840 - c 1900), of German origin, who qualified as a master craftsman in 1858, and from 1880 ran Faberge’s second jewellery workshop. The same mark AT was also used by three other masters who did not work for Faberge, namely Alexander Edvard Tillander, (1837-1918) and his son, Alexander Theodor who took over the family firm in 1910, moving the business to new premises previously being those of the court jeweller Carl Hahn. The second maker A. Tobinkov was workmaster for the firm of silversmiths, Nichols & Plincke, and the third master was A. Treiden.