Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

An early 20th century gold and diamond set buckle by Cartier, circa 1902, the bowed oval frame with inner twin C-scrolls set with rose-cut diamonds, the chape signed ‘Cartier Paris’, stamped ‘622’, with French eagle’s head assay mark and lozenge maker’s mark, the chape engraved to the reverse with the number ‘279’ in italics, contained in fitted gilt tooled leatherette case, the cover stamped ‘M de L.C.’, the interior cream silk signed ‘CARTIER PARIS 13 RUE DE LA PAIX / LONDON 4 NEW BURLINGTON STREET’, dimensions 72.5 x 51mm. £2,000-£3,000

Pierre Cartier (1878-1964) opened the first Cartier boutique in London at 4, New Burlington Street, in 1902, to coincide with the coronation of King Edward VII. In 1909, under the direction of 25-year-old Jacques, (1884-1941), the youngest of the three Cartier brothers, it was decided to relocate the London business around the corner to its present location at 175-176 New Bond Street.