Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

A 19th century South African ‘Zulu shield’ brooch, the elliptical shield of oxidized silver, applied with spears and clubs, the reverse stamped ‘J.PARDY DURBAN’, length 50mm. £100-150

Novelty jewellery become popular in the late Victorian era, often inspired by nationalistic events, both at home and in the British colonies. In January 1879, Britain invaded the Zulu kingdom in South Africa, achieving a decisive British victory over the Zulus within just six months. British nationalist pride lead to Zulu weapons being brought back as ‘trophies’ of their victory, including Zulu leather shields and weapons. The London jeweller John Brogden may well have seen such displays at the British Museum, and there is a similar example to the above Zulu brooch, made by Brogden, circa 1880s, in the collection of the British Museum, recreating the shield and weapon trophies as a brooch in oxidized silver and gold.

An almost identical design was registered in 1883 by M J Goldsmid of Birmingham, (National Archives, BT 43/55, no. 403248), this design possibly being sold on to jewellers such as Brogden.

See: Gere, C. and Rudoe, J., Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria, The British Museum Press, 2010, page 199, fig. 153.