Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

A cuff bracelet, by Buccellati, circa 1960s, the 18ct two colour gold hinged bangle designed in the form of overlapping realistically modelled oak leaves and acorns, the cups in textured silver, signed ‘Buccellati, Italy, 750’, bangle width 48mm, weight 142gm. £6000-8000

The Italian firm Buccellati is famous for its rich textural gold jewellery spanning the decades from the 1920s to the 1960s. Their finest pieces are bold and immediately recognisable. Mario Buccellati was the first to introduce the technique of texture-engraving, often using mixed metals of silver and gold, or platinum and gold. The different engraving techniques are called rigato (parallel lines cut onto the surface of metal to obtain a sheen effect), telato (texture, obtained by fine cross-hatched lines), segrinato (engraving in every directions with overlapping textures), ornato (decoration based on natural forms such as animals, leaves and flowers), and modellato (the most delicate engraving technique which consists of reproducing several designs chiselled in three dimensions). When the process is complete, the finish will often resemble a fine fabric - linen, lace or silk. This cuff bangle is an example of ‘ornato’, naturalistically reproducing acorns amidst oak leaves, and using several of the different engraving techniques to great effect.