An Art Deco diamond brooch, circa 1925-1930, the stylised buckle of openwork geometric design, set throughout with baguette, step, old brilliant and brilliant-cut diamonds, with old pear-shaped diamonds to either side, millegrain detail throughout, mounted in platinum, unsigned, numbered ‘T232’ or ‘7232’, total diamond weight approximately 15.00 carats, diameter 6.5cm. £6,000-£8,000

The workmanship and style of this belt buckle brooch is comparable to the jewels of Cartier during the Art Deco period.

The scalloped central section reflects the fascination that Cartier in particular had with the decorative arts of Persia and India, with inspiration taken from the patterns of Islamic architecture and textiles.

The old pear-shaped diamonds in this brooch may have also come from an earlier jewel that a client wished to have remodelled; a practice that Cartier and other firms regularly undertook.

Literature:
Nadelhoffer, H., 'Cartier', Thames and Hudson, 1984.
Rudoe, J., ‘Cartier 1900-1939’, British Museum Press, 1997.